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Frank's Method
This is meant as a guide only. In some cases there are no hard and fast rules on how to clean or break in a barrel but there are things that should not be done.
Always use a good one piece cleaning rod. I prefer a coated Dewey or Bore Tech rods. A nice quality cleaning rod with bearings in the handle so the handle will freely rotate with the brush and or cleaning jag etc…if you don’t have a cleaning rod with a free rotating handle you can cause damage to the bore of the barrel.
Use a good bore guide, any is better than nothing. Excellent examples are the Lucas bore guide, Sinclair, Proshot, Possum Hollow are some.
Never mix solvents whether in the bore or in the jars etc… unless you’re a chemist and you know how the chemicals are going to react to one another and how there are going to react with the steel and copper from the bullets and the carbon residue etc…. don’t do it. Some cleaners and mixing are known to cause pitting/etching in the bore of the barrel. Also some cleaners should not be left in the bore for extended periods of time. Some cleaners say it’s safe to leave in the bore for extended periods of time but I do question some of them.
I use Parker Hale type cleaning jag. Cut your patch to the length of the jag and roll the patch like you roll a cigarette (this will keep the tip of the rod centered in the bore as it goes down the barrel and with the help of the rod guide you have minimal chance of rod contact with the bore) get your patch soaked with your solvent (if not in a hurry I just use regular Hoppe’s #9 solvent - not the copper solvent) run the patch down the bore and just let the tip of it poke out the muzzle. Not the whole jag tip. This will keep the rod from dragging over the crown and damaging the crown of the barrel. Pull the rod back through the barrel and remove the patch and put on a fresh one on the jag get it wet and down the bore and back again. I do this until the patches come out clean. With Hoppe’s I will leave the gun sit over night. Repeat this process until the barrel comes out clean. I store all my guns with Hoppe’s. It will protect as good as any oil. Before shooting run a couple fresh wet patches down the bore and dry patch thoroughly. Dry patching the bore includes wiping the chamber out as well.
If the patch is squeaking/squealing going down the bore and or the cleaning rod is flexing a lot the patch is too tight! The dirt, carbon particles etc.. have no where to go but potentially scratch the bore of the barrel. The very first patch might squeak a little bit because the bore is dry but if it’s doing it on any subsequent patches it’s too tight.
I don’t use a brush for this reason as well. The hard carbon deposits lay in the brush and can scratch the bore.
If you insist on using a brush. I suggest one caliber smaller or an old worn our one and roll patch around it like a cigarette. Push it breech to muzzle and come all the way out. Remove the brush from the rod before pulling the rod back through. Why? The crown is the last thing the bullet sees/touches when leaving the barrel. And damage to the crown effects the accuracy right away. Pulling the brush back over the crown the bristles have to fold very abruptly and this will wear the crown unevenly and damage it etc… (a lot of people say the bronze brushes are softer than the barrel steel. I do agree with this statement but then why can water erode rocks!) you also get crown wear/damage from the powder gases exiting the barrel. This is known as gas cutting. Sometimes some shooters think their barrel is junk but the crown could be damaged or just worn. In some cases you can recrown the barrel and you can see the accuracy come back. If in doubt take it to a competent gunsmith and have it inspected.
If I’m in a hurry I clean my barrel with Sweet’s 7.62 solvent. Again one patch wet one after another until they come out clean looking (I don’t let the barrel soak for any extended period of time) and once they come out clean dry patch completely the bore and chamber. Then get one patch soaked with Remington 40x cleaner (use to be Rem. Bore cleaner and before that it was called Gold Medallion). Stroke the barrel with that one patch 10x (again don’t completely exit the muzzle). This patch will eliminate any leftover Sweet’s solvent and will tackle any left over carbon fouling. The 40x cleaner in opinion is fine and not aggressive like some of the bore pastes that are out there. After the patch of 40x cleaner dry patch thoroughly. Run a patch of Hoppe’s #9 down the bore and back. Before you shoot again the next day just dry patch the bore and chamber thoroughly. (This is my hurry up method) and only use it when shooting in matches where I have to shoot in days back to back etc…. again if I’m not in a hurry to clean the gun all I use is regular Hoppe’s #9 and nothing else.
No fire lapping kits should be used in our barrels. This can damage the barrel and we will not warranty a barrel in any way.
Your barrel should never be lapped by anyone else other than us. Any individual or gunsmith lapping our barrels also voids the warranty.
We do not recommend using most paste type cleaners. These can be aggressive and like lapping etc… and if you don’t remove all of the paste before shooting you might as well have sand in the bore when the first round goes down it. It will damage the barrel. Also using paste type cleaners can keep polishing to the point and if over used will actually remove/change/effect the bore dimensions. The lands will take the most beating/wear to them. There are concerns that you can make the barrel too smooth and this also leads to copper fouling issues. Once something like this happens to the barrel it is usually damaged beyond the point it can be saved. Also using a past type cleaner with a brush is guaranteed damage to the bore. Paste cleaners like Iosso, Witch’s Brew, KG2 etc….and we’ve seen the damaged caused with these.
Mark's Method
WIP
Brady's Method
Brady has participated in U.S. Military, NRA, CMP, USPSA, PRS, and PCSL matches cumulating over 20 years of competition experience. He has earned Distinguished Pistol Shot and Rifleman, High Master Service Rifle, President's 100, Chief's 50, Governor's Twenty, and other state and local championships.
"My preferred cleaning cleaning solutions are Hoppe's #9, Sweet's 7.62, and JB Bore cleaning compound (the grey stuff). I have two methods depending on what I am doing or what is upcoming.
First, if I am not on a time constraint, going to put a firearm away for storage, or done with it for the season, I will clean it with Hoppe's and let it soak. Usually I will let it sit all day, or possibly overnight.
Hoppe's Method:
2 - 4 wet patches of Hoppe's, and note how much carbon is coming out. Then let it sit for whatever time I decide or is convenient. I will come back and push at least two more wet patches of Hoppe's and note again how much is coming out. Often, I get some blue on the patches from the copper in the bore. If it starts to come out grey, then I am close to being done. If it is still very black or blue, I will let it sit and soak again. If the patches are light grey or almost clean, it's time to dry patch and put away.
Sweet's Method:
I do a similar process with Sweet's 7.62, but it's abbreviated. This is for when I need to get something clean fast, say in the middle of a match, or am going to be back out shooting again soon. 2 - 4 patches of Sweet's, and let it soak, but this time ONLY for 20-30 minutes MAX. Sweet's will corrode your bore, and turn the insides to rust. After 20 minutes or so, I will come back and push another 2~ patches through the barrel. Again both times I am noting how much junk is coming off on the patches. If it is looking clean, I will dry patch, and then follow with two patches of Hoppe's to neutralize the aggressive chemicals in the Sweet's. Then two dry patches, then done.
You ALWAYS MUST neutralize the more aggressive solvent!
JB Bore Cleaning compound, the "Grey Stuff":
JB Bore cleaning compound is one of the best ways to do a deep clean safely. There is a large "BUT" with this - it is a mild abrasive paste, therefore we need to be very careful and not over do it. I only use JB after a certain round count, usually based on the cartridge. With the .223 Rem, it was 4-600 rounds. 6mm ARC 2-300. Larger, more pressure calibers with hotter, dirtier powders may be more often, but also less intensive process.
First, get your cleaning rod, put on your jag or brush, and lay it against the side of the rifle, with the tip just behind the crown of the barrel. Mark the position on the rear of the rod with a silver marker, paint pen, or tape. This is our "stop" marker.
Next, get a jag, or a very worn-out plastic bristle brush, and wrap a patch around it that covers the entire jag, or all the bristles. Often I will cut a patch down to make sure it fits, covers the jag, but doesn't let anything poke through. Cover the patch entirely with a light coat of paste.
Now, we are going to insert the rod into the barrel and do 10-15 strokes through the barrel, stopping short of the crown. If you cross the crown, ensure that you push the rod out, remove the tip with the patch, and start over from the chamber end. We never want to drag anything back across the crown.
Once the 10-15 strokes are done, we can short stroke the throat 10-15 times to remove any light carbon ring that may be forming. Usually, you only need to do this twice, but in very fouled rifles we can do it 4-6 times. However, with any abrasive, less is more, and being shy in your cleaning with abrasives is always a better choice.
Finally, we will do a light clean with Hoppe's, 2 patches wet, 2 dry. Your rifle will have had a deep clean, and will need to be "seasoned" again, and will take up to 10 rounds to settle down. Larger calibers generally need fewer, 4-6.
As always, if you have any questions, feel free to call or email."
** Pictures to follow **